All Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.

Michael Tate
Michael Tate

Maya Chen is a tech journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and consumer electronics trends.